tittle perrito from government, was first who pushed foundationof national parks in argentina, but he never saw the glacier named later by him.some people told us it is just attraction, there are many glaciers around similar as perito is, that, for example, glacier gray (that we missed in torres) is more attractive since it has also ice bergs in lake. the others told us that moreno is beautiful, must be seen and lorana told us that many people say that perito moreno is bigger attraction then iguazu falls...
we will see iguazu next month and perito moreno which we saw two days ago was really spectacularly, it was something different!!! we have just cross rio negro (i am typing this in bus to cordoba) which means that we are out of patagonia and after all we have seen i can tell that perito moreno is the biggest attraction!
we visited moreno with local tour organized by our hostel and we have nice young cecilia as tour guide. cold day was rising but dryand very clear. we could see far away, we stopped to take picturesfrom far of mountain where we were going to and we were witness ofone more argentinean sunrise...did i mention that it is around 9h so here, in argentina before sunrise would be a bit longer movie : )
first look to perito moreno was not something big...that is the picture one can see everywhere around...and it was still cold and not pleasant to stay there on hill...next plan for tour was boat trip upto north face of glacier...there were several similar tours as ours and in one of them were our friends from torres, veronika and martin...lucky guys with weather so this day which was especially nice were one more prove to that! cecilia told us that it is very unusual that we can see all mountains around, they are usually in fog (so god blessed us after torres:)) )
boat trip we have to pay extra but we are now happy that we give that money...it was great to be 300-400m close to giant ice berg (we only later realize that it was so far, on the boat we thought we are much closer). first ice piece was as piece of glass, i mean big big piece...whow it was hermoso and lindo and fabulous and beautiful and fenomenalno! just look at photos that i attached...no comment!
and face of glacier 50m of hight, one can not know that just look at it...must be something near to have aspect of ratio (red velicine:)) ) and later on we will took pic of our boat from nearby terraces where visitors are aloud to walk, took a pictures and listen how glacier works...
every 15 min you can hear some pieces of ice how crashes into lake. but shell we see some big enough part how crash? they fall but somewhere that we can not see.. for that we attach to lucky veronika and martin and results come.: )) already in first 15min one big part crashes in to water. for next big crash we were waiting on the closest teras to glacier next two hours...and it payoff....we could see first small parts falling, and after hour the big guy was falling. juhhhuuuu, i have sequence of photos (giving you just 3-4) and martin has complete spectacle recorded...all together with our screams when it's happened!!! are we happy now, veronika asked....:)))) yes, we leave park satisfied...
in hostel we found that somebody is also in our room...that was one more surprise ( i already told you at the end of last blog), another torres fanatic, english kata and french sebastien living in barcelona and on the one year trip around the world...more screaming for that day, nice dinner prepared by sebastien, beer, wine...
yesterday noon we left calafate, seb and kata will meet japanese friends, soon we will found out theirs names and went to chalten formore winter tracking...there will find nice weather since now they will probably go at the same time as veronika and martin...xexexe. all the best for all of them, and for us also....tomorrow in this time we will walking along cordoba streets with hopefully much less cloths on ourself.
tracking to esmeralda lake and up to the albino glacier took all next day. two of us and lorana citizen of argentina, bsas, left hostel while it was still dark and took a taxi which left as at thebeginning of hasky valley...this story is easy to tell in picturesso please go to 
it was nice to see them with notebooks and pencils (some of them also with recorders) walking around saving what their teacher says...and again, all of them dressed same...nice. drinking beer after that on hermoso plaza dominated by magelan's statue (in center of town) and looking how people change on the bench was also nice part of punta arenas... 
bad (or not bad, but not nice) part was not finding some key or beach to walk near the magelan channel... i want also to mention two backpackers we met in our room in blue house hostel, korean- 3 years around world travel guy and spanish chef on 3 mounts holiday, both coming from torres del paine and with good and valuable advice. of these two i did not take photos and i am sorry for that. from now on i will try to take photo of all people i have communication with since i find it nice to look at their faces again...
bus left us on the entrance near laguna amarga and we proceed further by foots willing to do "w" classic trek for the most visitors. but in summer time, of course. now, off season, there were only few more, must say, fanatics who were doing same as we do. in summer it should take 4 days (with 3 nights) but in this time of the year when there is not enough daylight rare are those who arefast enough to do that in 4 days.
second day was bad weather and plan to be fast, reach top and be back soon enough to pack, leave chileano and reach next finger that plan was spoiled in its beginning...so we decided, same as others, to stay hoping for some sun afternoon and move to italiano campsiteon second finger tomorrow. that was reasonable also because up toitaliano camp one need more then 7h which means all day walking(with 10 kilo backpack of course). so we stayed as couple from tokyoand czech jirka while swiss-czech couple did the same day before andthis day left to italiano...they were lucky, sun appear day beforebut not that day for us...so misha, jirka and me were climbing thatday...it was nice relaxing walk through wood with light rain...at the end of hike climb become more steep and also become more rainyand windy and not relaxing anymore, but we did it...we reach thelake and exactly the place from where one can almost touch torres (iattach postcard to show that) but we see nothing! just nothing...sobad luck. we were waiting a bit in small cave next to lake, tookphotos of hungry bird, also walk down and reach another place where is a good view to torres but no! all day no no no! 
next day we could see torreses from camp how they appear red and become white
jirka at the end of his "w" tour (did it from different direction) went there and spend nice day upthere made nice photos (i've just made him dvd but i'am not going to steal his photos...i will give a link to his gallery as soon as i have it ), japanese women motivated to take photo with her old nikon(nikomoron) reflex camera, went up earlier to some point from where she could see them...misha, me and male japanese were satisfied with view from camp and with worm tea in one hand and small canon 530 inother, when japanese lady was already back, i made few photos...not bad....long walk was waiting for us as soon as we packed wet tent from yesterdays rain...it was good walk with perfect weather condition and, at the end it will came up, the best day we had in park.
main attraction of third finger, glacier gray, we have planed to see next day, come back to same campsite and proceed a bit more to becloser to end of track, administration, which we would come to fifthday around 13h when bus should pick up us....
